Personal Care
Rheology Modifiers: A Buyer's Guide to Thickeners
The three families of thickeners — natural gums, cellulose ethers and carbomers — and how formulators pick one for clarity, electrolyte tolerance and suspension.
By Berstin Technical Desk · Sourcing & Technical Specialists
· 4 min read
Almost every liquid, gel or cream in personal care, home care and industrial formulation relies on a rheology modifier to behave the way a brand wants. The thickener sets the viscosity a customer feels, decides whether pigment or beads stay suspended, and governs how the product pours, pumps or spreads. Three material families do most of this work, and choosing between them is a sourcing decision as much as a formulation one.
What is a rheology modifier (thickener)?
A rheology modifier — commonly called a thickener — is an ingredient that raises viscosity and controls how a liquid or cream flows. They fall into three main families: natural gums (xanthan, guar), cellulose ethers (CMC, HEC, HPMC) and synthetic acrylics (carbomers). The right choice is driven by clarity, electrolyte and pH tolerance, whether the system needs particle suspension or an easy pour, and how the ingredient reads on the label.
“Rheology” simply means flow behaviour. Most modern thickeners are pseudoplastic: thick at rest, so they suspend particles and stay put on a surface, then thinner under shear, so they pour, pump and spread easily and recover viscosity afterwards. That shear-thinning profile is why a single material can both hold a bead in suspension and still flow from a bottle.
What are the main types of thickeners?
The three families differ in chemistry, and that chemistry predicts their behaviour in a formula.
- Natural gums are polysaccharide biopolymers. Xanthan gum is produced by microbial fermentation; guar gum is milled from the guar bean. They thicken by hydrating into entangled, water-holding networks and are strongly pseudoplastic.
- Cellulose ethers are semi-synthetic polymers made by chemically modifying cellulose. Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) thicken by hydrating into long, water-soluble chains and are available across a wide range of viscosity grades.
- Synthetic acrylics are crosslinked polyacrylic acids — the carbomers. As supplied they are tightly coiled and acidic; once dispersed and neutralised with a base, the chains uncoil and swell, building viscosity and clarity quickly.
Xanthan gum, guar gum, CMC, HEC, HPMC and carbomers are all stocked in the Berstin products portfolio, which lets a formulator trial more than one family against the same brief.
Natural gums vs cellulose ethers vs carbomers — how do they compare?
Each family trades one strength for a watch-out. Natural gums lead on suspension and pH range but can look hazy; cellulose ethers give clean, clear flow but some grades thin under high shear; carbomers deliver clarity and sharp thickening but are sensitive to electrolytes.
| Family | Examples | How it thickens | Strengths | Watch-outs | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural gums | Xanthan gum (E 415), guar gum (E 412) | Hydrated polysaccharide network; pseudoplastic | Strong suspension, wide pH range, clean-label, salt-tolerant | Possible haze, batch variability, microbial/enzymatic sensitivity | Sauces and foods, suspending cleansers, natural-positioned care |
| Cellulose ethers | CMC (E 466), HEC, HPMC | Hydrated water-soluble chains; broad grade range | Clear, smooth flow; broad compatibility; many viscosity grades | Some grades thin under high shear; certain types are pH- or enzyme-sensitive | Clear gels, lotions, pharma and industrial fluids |
| Synthetic acrylics | Carbomers | Crosslinked polyacrylic acid; uncoils on neutralisation | High clarity, efficient thickening, excellent suspension | Loses viscosity with electrolytes; needs neutralisation with a base | Clear gels, emulsions, leave-on personal care |
Directional comparison for sourcing decisions. Confirm exact properties, grade behaviour and E-number status against the current TDS/SDS for the grade you source.
How do you choose a thickener for your formulation?
Work through the system, not the marketing. A short set of questions usually points to one family before you ever weigh a sample.
- Clarity. If the product must be crystal-clear — a hand sanitiser gel, a serum — carbomers or HEC are natural starting points. Natural gums can introduce haze.
- Electrolyte and pH tolerance. Surfactant systems and electrolyte-heavy formulas knock down carbomer viscosity, while xanthan gum holds up well across salt and pH. Match the thickener to the chemistry already in the tank.
- Suspension vs easy pour. To hold beads, pigment or actives in place, a strongly pseudoplastic gum such as xanthan is hard to beat. For a thinner, fast-pouring fluid, a lower-viscosity cellulose grade may be enough.
- Label positioning. Clean-label and “natural” claims favour fermentation- or plant-derived gums. A performance gel may justify a synthetic acrylic instead.
- Process and cost. Carbomers need a neutralisation step; some gums need careful dispersion to avoid lumping. Factor handling and landed cost alongside performance.
For a clean-label suspending system, xanthan gum is a common anchor — see the xanthan gum material page for trade names and specifications. Many formulators also blend families, for example a gum for suspension with a cellulose ether for clarity and feel.
Sourcing thickeners: grades and considerations
The same INCI or common name can arrive at very different viscosity grades, purity levels and price points depending on the manufacturer and origin. Guar gum, for instance, is catalogued in food and industrial grades (E 412; FCC; HS 1302.32), while CMC is available in food and technical grades (E 466; FCC; USP; HS 3912.31). Specifying the grade — not just the material — is what keeps a formula reproducible from pilot to production.
This is where an independent distributor adds value: matching the right grade from the right producer to your clarity, pH, suspension and documentation requirements, with the lead time your market needs. Cellulose ethers such as HEC, CMC and HPMC, the gums and carbomers are each available in multiple grades through a curated manufacturer network.
Berstin supplies xanthan gum, guar gum, carbomers, HEC, CMC and HPMC in multiple grades. Tell us your application, target viscosity and the clarity, pH and electrolyte conditions of your system, and we will respond with technical data, lead times and indicative pricing.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between carbomer and xanthan gum?
What are natural thickeners for formulations?
How do you thicken a water-based formulation?
Which thickener grade should I specify when ordering?
Materials referenced
Materials covered in this article — talk to us for grades, specs and availability.
Personal Care
Xanthan Gum
Food & Beverage
Guar Gum
Personal Care
Carbomers
Home Care
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)
Home Care
Carboxymethyl Cellulose (CMC)
Pharmaceutical
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC)
Sources
- EFSA — Re-evaluation of xanthan gum (E 415) as a food additive, EFSA Journal (2017)
- EFSA — Re-evaluation of guar gum (E 412) as a food additive, EFSA Journal (2017)
- EFSA — Re-evaluation of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (E 466) as a food additive, EFSA Journal (2022)
- European Commission — Food and Feed Information Portal Database (food additives)
Related articles
SLES vs SLS vs CAPB: Choosing the Right Surfactant
How SLES, SLS and cocamidopropyl betaine differ on mildness, foam and cost — and how formulators pair a primary and a secondary surfactant in real products.
Types of Surfactants: Anionic, Nonionic & More
A sourcing-led guide to the four surfactant families — anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic — and how head-group charge governs detergency, foam, mildness and compatibility.
APG: The Natural, Biodegradable Surfactant
What alkyl polyglucosides are, why they read as natural and biodegradable, and how decyl, lauryl and coco glucoside differ for formulators and buyers.